Moss Stitch Knit Mittens

When my sister-in-law asked if I could make her a pair of mittens, I told her how I never made mittens before, but it wasn't going to stop me!

Knit and Crochet. They are two completely different types of yarn work, and I am so glad that I know how to do both. They both have their positives and negatives. Crochet does happen to be a lot faster, and as for knit, I believe there are certain items that look better knit. Mittens, happen to be one of them.

So yes, when my sister-in-law asked if I would make her a pair of mittens, I could have crocheted them. I also could have chosen a simpler pattern. But, I did not. I choose a moss stitch pattern, that the pattern writer called "Mittens To Match Hermione's Deathly Hallows Graveyard Beret". I would have tried the hat as well, but ran out of yarn. I could not find any yarn that would match the dye lot... plus I wasn't sure if my sister-in-law wanted a hat as well.




I'm going to copy the pattern here as well. I really liked these mittens, and I would hate to want to make them again, and have the pattern not be there anymore. I'm saving paper too! The one thing I am doing, is switching the pattern for the RIGHT HAND and LEFT HAND. I found that the pattern for the LEFT HAND really fit my right hand better. Strange.

You will need worsted weight yarn, Size 5 DP needles, and 2 stitch markers.
Cuff:
Cast on 44 stitches. Distribute them over DP needles, making sure each needle has an even number of stitches
Join in the round, making sure not to twist the work.
K1 P1, repeat to the end of row
Continue this pattern for 3 inches


Right Hand:
Row 1: Knit around
Row 2 & 3: K2, P2, repeat to end of row
Row 4 & 5: P2, K2, repeat to end or row
Row 6: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, place stitch marker, M1, K2, M1, place stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times
Row 7: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, P1, K2, P1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times
Row 8: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, K1, P2, K1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 5 more times
Row 9: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, M1, K1, P2, K1, M1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 5 more times
Row 10 & 11: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, P2, K2, P2, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times
Row 12: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, M1, K2, P2, K2, M1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 5 more times
Row 13: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, P1, K2, P2, K2, P1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 5 more times
Row 14: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, K1, P2, K2, P2, K1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times
Row 15: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, M1, K1, P2, K2, P2, K1, M1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times
Row 16 & 17: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 5 more times
Row 18: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, M1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, M1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times
Row 19: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, P1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times
Row 20: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 5 more times
Row 21: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, M1, K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1, M1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 5 more times
Row 22 & 23: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times
Row 24: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, M1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, M1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 5 more times
Row 25: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, P1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 5 more times
Row 26: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, stitch marker, K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times
Row 27: *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times, remove first stitch marker. Using a yarn needle pull a piece of holding
yarn through the stitches between the markers, you will come back to these stitches later. Remove second stitch marker. Cast on 2 stitches onto the needle with your first 16 stitches. These stitches replace the original two that are now part of the thumb gusset. Continue working with the stitches beyond the second stitch marker P2, *K2, P2* repeat 5 more times. You should now have recreated a circle of 44 stitches for the hand portion.
Row 28: P2, K2, repeat to end or row
Row 29: P2, K2, repeat to end or row
Row 30: K2, P2, repeat to end of row
Row 31: K2, P2, repeat to end of row
Continue knitting in pattern until the mitten is long enough to hide your pinky finger (stretched is fine), making sure the last 2 rows are repeats of P2, K2.
Begin following instructions for Hand decrease.


Left Hand:
Row1: Knit around
Row 2 & 3: K2, P2, repeat to end of row
Row 4 & 5: P2, K2, repeat to end or row
Row 6: K2, P2, place stitch marker, M1, K2, M1, place stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times
Row 7: K2, P2, stitch marker, P1, K2, P1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times
Row 8: P2, K2, stitch marker, K1, P2, K1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times
Row 9: P2, K2, stitch marker, M1, K1, P2, K1, M1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times
Row 10 & 11: K2, P2, stitch marker, P2, K2, P2, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times
Row 12: P2, K2, stitch marker, M1, K2, P2, K2, M1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times
Row 13: P2, K2, stitch marker, P1, K2, P2, K2, P1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times
Row 14: K2, P2, stitch marker, K1, P2, K2, P2, K1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times
Row 15: K2, P2, stitch marker, M1, K1, P2, K2, P2, K1, M1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times
Row 16 & 17: P2, K2, stitch marker, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times
Row 18: K2, P2, stitch marker, M1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, M1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times
Row 19: K2, P2, stitch marker, P1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times
Row 20: P2, K2, stitch marker, K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times
Row 21: P2, K2, stitch marker, M1, K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1, M1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times
Row 22 & 23: K2, P2, stitch marker, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times
Row 24: P2, K2, stitch marker, M1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, M1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times
Row 25: P2, K2, stitch marker, P1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P1, stitch marker, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times
Row 26: K2, P2, stitch marker, K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1, stitch marker, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times
Row 27: K2, P2, remove first stitch marker. Using a yarn needle pull a piece of holding yarn through the stitches between the markers, you will come back to these stitches later. Remove second stitch marker. Cast on 2
stitches onto the needle with your first 4 stitches. These stitches replace the original two that are now part of the thumb gusset. Continue working with the stitches beyond the second stitch marker P2, *K2, P2* repeat 8 more times. You should now have recreated a circle of 44 stitches for the hand portion.
Row 28: P2, K2, repeat to end or row
Row 29: P2, K2, repeat to end or row
Row 30: K2, P2, repeat to end of row
Row 31: K2, P2, repeat to end of row
Continue knitting in pattern until the mitten is long enough to hide your pinky finger making sure the last 2 rows are repeats of P2, K2.
Begin following instructions for Hand decrease.

Note: When creating the thumb gusset for the left hand - there will be 16 stitches, then a place marker, a variable number of stitches, then another place marker, followed by a 26 stitches. When creating the thumb gusset for the right hand - there will be 4 stitches, then a place marker, a variable number of stitches, then another place marker, followed by a 38 stitches.


Hand Decrease:
The previous 2 rows knit should have been repeats of P2, K2. The number in parentheses is the number of stitches you should have after completing the row.
Row 1: S1, P2tog, psso, P1, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, S1, K2tog, psso, K1, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times (40)
Row 2: *P2, K2* repeat 4 more times, *K2, P2* repeat 4 more times (40)
Row 3: S1, P2tog, psso, P1, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 2 more times, P2, S1, K2tog, psso, K1, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 2 more times, K2 (36)
Row 4: *P2, K2* repeat 8 more times (36)
Row 5: S1, P2tog, psso, P1, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 2 more times, S1, K2tog, psso, K1, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 2 more times (32)
Row 6: *P2, K2* repeat 3 more times, *K2, P2* repeat 3 more times (32)
Row 7: S1, P2tog, psso, P1, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 1 more time, P2, S1, K2tog, psso, K1, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 1 more time, K2 (28)
Row 8: *P2, K2* repeat 6 more times (28)
Row 9: S1, P2tog, psso, P1, K2, *P2, K2* repeat 1 more time, S1, K2tog, psso, K1, P2, *K2, P2* repeat 1 more time (24)
Row 10: *P2, K2* repeat 2 more times, *K2, P2* repeat 2 more times (24)
Bind off using Kitchener closure.


Thumb:
You should have a hole with 16 stitches on your holding yarn and an edge from the hand part of the glove. Pick up 4 stitches from the hand portion. Slip the stitches from the holding yarn as well as the picked up stitches onto DP needles. Distribute 3 of the picked up stitches on the needle from which you will begin knitting, these will be the first 3 stitches of your row. Place the last picked up stitch on the last knitting needle. This will be the last stitch of your row. Recall that when you moved the stitches to the holding yarn you had just done this with them (K1, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K1). Now you have 3+16+1. Therefore you should begin with this sequence so you continue correctly within the pattern:
Row 1: *P2, K2* repeat 4 times (20)
Row 2 & 3: *K2, P2* repeat 4 times (20)
Row 4 & 5: *P2, K2* repeat 4 times (20)
Row 6-9: Continue to knit in the round and follow the moss stitch pattern, repeating rows 2-5 (20)
Row 10-13: Continue to knit in the round and follow the moss stitch pattern, repeating rows 2-5 (20)
Row 14: S1, P2tog, psso, P1, K2, P2, K2, S1, K2tog, psso, K1, P2, K2, P2 (16)
Row 15: P2, K2, P2, K4, P2, K2, P2 (16)
Row 16: K2, P2, K2, P4, K2, P2, K2 (16)
Row 17: S1, P2tog, psso, P1, K2, P2, S1, K2tog, psso, K1, P2, K2 (12)
Row 18 & 19: K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2 (12)
Row 20: S1, K2tog, psso, K1, P2, S1, K2tog, psso, K1, P2 (8)
Bind off using Kitchener closure.

Baby Props

I made more baby props for my friend over at Shanna Chess Photography!! I really hope they work well for her!

The first are a crowns!


There are 3 rounds of sc, to whatever length you want it to be. The peaks of the boys crown are 2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc in the same stitch. Where the girls crown has a pattern of the smaller peaks, and larger peaks that are 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc.

I made them big enough to fit bigger babies, and can be pinned to fit the smaller babies.

The next thing I made was this super cute and simple monkey hat with ear flaps! Using the same pattern that I did with this baby hat with ear flaps, all I had to do was add little monkey ears!

All the monkey ears are, 12 sc in a magic ring, sc once in each stitch around round 2, and for round 3, sc in front loop only... but not in all of the stitches. Maybe 9 or 10, leaving the others open to sew onto the hat.

Covered Cozy Untangled Earphones pt. 2

I showed you before how I made Covered Untangled Cozy Earbuds with worsted weight yarn. I love my new earbuds! I never have to worry about them being untangled, even when I just throw them in my purse. It's lovely.

My husband wanted me to make him a pair, but he didn't want it as bulky as mine. So I decided to try a fingering sock yarn. Truthfully, after I made his, I wasn't happy with it. I made another one for my nephew, and again, I didn't like it.

So I played around with a new fingering sock yarn, and played around with needle size as well as number of stitches on the needle. And, I finally came up with this one, which I absolutely love!





With the worsted weight yarn, I casted on 3 and worked the i-cord up. When I hit the "V", I increased to 6 and worked 3 stitches up both sides. {I explained it better in my post. At least I think I explained it better.}



For the fingering weight / sock yarn, I casted on 5, and worked the i-cord up. At the "V" I only increased once. Each ear going up I only worked 3 stitches, instead of the 5. I probably would have been fine increasing 3, and working 4 stitches up each ear wire.

If you read my other post, you'll probably get a better idea on how this works. You can also youtube iPhone i-cord and there's a ton of videos!!


Check out the difference between the fingering yarn and the worsted weight.



HUGE difference!!! Although I do love them both, I guess it just depends on which one I grab for the day.

I love my covered cozy untangled earphones!!

Covered Untangled Cozy Earbuds

I finished the covered cozy earbuds today! Not too bad for starting it 24 hours before finishing it.... and I know if sleeping and doing some errands didn't get in the way it would have been completed a lot sooner!





I love it so much!! I really want to make more and whip out a ton, not really sure for what.... maybe Christmas gifts for the niece and nephews. While I used worsted weight yarn and size 5 double pointed knitting needles, I think I might try one in a fingering yarn and smaller needles. So it's not as bulky. I'll have to see what it looks like, even though I really enjoy the ones I just finished. I also think a less uniformed variegated yarn would make it look classy.



While the original pattern that I found came from Ravelry. It's a pattern called Untangled. I ended up looking at the design and wanted something a little different.

In her pattern she started at one of the earbuds, and worked her way down, stopping at the V. She binded off at the V, and started new all of the way down. While I do like the style, I wanted to cover up the whole area! I also didn't want to keep starting and stopping. So for my pattern, it's a little different.



Please keep in mind, I am still a beginner knitter! I still have a hard time with reading patterns, let alone writing them. So my pattern may be a little "different" than others! Please read the whole thing before starting.


I used worsted weight yarn and size 5 double pointed knitting needles.

You start by casting on 3.
You then slide your work to the right end of the needle, place the wire to the earbuds behind your work and knit 3.
Slide your work to the right, and knit 3 again.

What you are making is an i-cord, and here is the video that helped me out a lot!

The trick... however... to wrapping it around your earbuds is very simple!! You need to make sure that your yarn from the left, before you knit your first stitch every row, is behind the wire to your earbuds. What I did was wrap up the cord with a rubber band so I could easily flip it over the yarn. You will have to do that every time you slide your work to the right. It might seem a little tedious, but it is so worth it!

I started from the bottom plug part of the cord and worked my way up to the V. When I reached the V, I increased one stitch for the next 3 rounds. I used the video tutorial here by Making 1 {M1}.

So now you will have a total of 6 stitches on your needle. Keep knitting those in the same i-cord pattern until you have reached the top of your V.



I used a saftey pin to hold three of the stitches and I slipped them off my needle. You can see the saftey pin in the picture above, holding the three stitches for the other earbud. When you have only 3 stitches back on your needle, you may start working the i-cord up one side of the earbud. Work all the way up to the ear piece and bind off.

When it comes time to work on the other side, join in your yarn (I liked this tutorial where they changed colors... it's essentially the same thing). Then start working your way up again!

If you have one like mine, that has the microphone. I binded off just below the microphone and started brand new just above. Bind off when you're all finished, and then tuck in your leftovers!

Remember, please keep in mind that I am not a well pattern writer for knitting. I'm just describing to you what I did, so if there's any way I can try to make it easier, please let me know!

I really want to make a step by step picture tutorial for this.... someday! I think it might be a little easier to follow that way.

Granny and Granny Ripples Afghan

I cannot believe it... but it's finished!!! The Granny and Granny Ripples Afghan is now finished, and in a bag ready to give away as a Christmas gift!





This is bigger than my Granny and Ripples Afghan that I made earlier this year. Where this could probably fit a double bed, and the one before was only a big lapghan.

There are 3 strips of granny squares, and I first started with 6" squares. Then attached 5 of the 6" squares together to make a strip! I had to make half grannies for the middle strip of squares, along with 4 whole grannies.

Granny and Granny Ripples Afghan
You'll need worsted weight yarn or various colors, and size H (5mm) crochet hook.
Gauge is not critical for this project.


First Granny Square Strip:
First Granny Square
To Start: ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2 dc in ring, [ch 1, 3 dc in ring] 3 times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beginning ch—12 dc and 4 ch-1 sps. Fasten off.
Round 2: Join with sl st in any ch-1 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-1 sp, *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp (corner made); repeat from * 2 more times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beginning ch—4 corners and 1 ch-1 sp one each side between corners. Fasten off.
Round 3: Join with sl st in any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * 2 more times; ch 1, join with sl st in top of beginning ch—4 corners, and one 3-dc group and 2 ch-1 sps on each side between corners. Fasten off.
Round 4: Join with sl st in any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next 2 ch-1 sps, *(3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next corner ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next 2 ch-1 sps; repeat from * 2 more times; join with sl st in top of beginning ch—4 corners, and one 3-dc group and 2 ch-1 sps on each side between corners. Fasten off.
Round 5-7: Continue in this pattern until the 7th round is completed. Fasten off.

Next Granny Square
Work same as first granny square through Round 6.
Round 7 (joining round): Join with sl st in any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next 2 ch-1 sps, *(3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next corner ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next 2 ch-1 sps; repeat from * once more, 3 dc in ­next corner ch-1 sp, hold WS of this square and previous square together, sl st in corresponding corner ch-1 sp of previous square, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner ch-1 sp of this square, 3 dc in next 2 ch-1 sps; join with sl st in top of beginning ch—4 corners, and one 3-dc group and 2 ch-1 sps on each side between corners. Fasten off.

Make and join more granny squares in this manner, making a strip of how many granny squares long that you'd want it.



Ripple Pattern #1
To Start: With RS one granny square strip #1 facing, join with sl st in corner ch-1 sp beginning of first full granny square, to work across top of strip from first full granny square across to half granny square.
Row 1: Ch 5, *{3dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1} repeat until you reach the top corner, {3dc, ch 1, 3dc} in top corner, {3dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1} repeat until you reach the bottom corner, DO NOT ch 1, 3dc in next ch 1 sp going up the next granny, ch 1; repeat from * until you have reached the end, ch 3 and sl st into corner of the last granny, turn.


You will continue working the same row pattern until desired length. If you want, you may work on both sides of the granny strip.



Your second granny square strip will not be made in a strip. You will make each individual square and attach it to the blanket one at a time. You will be using a method similar to the one in this tutorial here.

Second Granny Square Strip:
Half Granny Square
To Start: ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Row 1: Ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1 here and throughout), (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in ring (corner made), ch 1, dc in ring; do not join—1 corner, and 1 ch-1 sp and 1 dc on each side of corner. Fasten off.
Row 2: Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-4, ch 4, 3 dc in beginning ch-sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in last ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in last dc—1 corner, and 2 ch-1 sps, one 3-dc group, and one dc on each side of corner. Fasten off.
Row 3: Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-4, ch 4, 3 dc in beginning ch-sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] twice, ch 1, dc in last dc—1 corner, and 3 ch-1 sps, two 3-dc groups, and one dc on each side of corner. Fasten off.
Row 4: Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-4, ch 3, 3 dc in each ch-1 sp to corner ch-1 sp, 3 dc in corner ch-1 sp, hold WS of this half square and last square of strip together, sl st in corresponding corner ch-1 sp of last square of strip, ch 1, 3 dc in same corner ch-1 sp of this half square, 3 dc in each ch-1 sp across, dc in last dc—1 corner, and three 3-dc groups and one dc on each side of corner. Fasten off.
Row 5-6: Continue in same pattern.
Row 7: Join with sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-4, ch 3, 3 dc in each ch-1 sp to corner ch-1 sp, 3 dc in corner, CH-1 INTO PEAK OF GRANNY RIPPLE, 3 dc in same corner sp, ch-1 into ch-1 sp of granny ripple, continue this pattern until the last sp, ch-1 into corner sp of ripple, dc into corner. Fasten off.

Whole Granny Square
To Start: ch 4; join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2 dc in ring, [ch 1, 3 dc in ring] 3 times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beginning ch—12 dc and 4 ch-1 sps. Fasten off.
Round 2: Join with sl st in any ch-1 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-1 sp, *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next ch-1 sp (corner made); repeat from * 2 more times, ch 1; join with sl st in top of beginning ch—4 corners and 1 ch-1 sp one each side between corners. Fasten off.
Round 3: Join with sl st in any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * 2 more times; ch 1, join with sl st in top of beginning ch—4 corners, and one 3-dc group and 2 ch-1 sps on each side between corners. Fasten off.
Round 4: Join with sl st in any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next 2 ch-1 sps, *(3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in next corner ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next 2 ch-1 sps; repeat from * 2 more times; join with sl st in top of beginning ch—4 corners, and one 3-dc group and 2 ch-1 sps on each side between corners. Fasten off.
Round 5-6: Continue in this pattern until the 7th round is completed. Fasten off.
Round 7: Join with sl st in any corner ch-1 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 1, 3 dc) in same ch-1 sp, 3 dc in next 2 ch-1 sps, 3 dc in corner, CH-1 INTO PEAK OF GRANNY RIPPLE, 3 dc in same corner sp, ch-1 into ch-1 sp of granny ripple, continue this pattern until you no longer have anything to ch-1 into. Continue pattern of 3dc in ch-1 sps, sl st into beginning ch, Fasten off.



Ripple Pattern #2
To Start: With RS one granny square strip #2 facing, join with sl st in first dc at top of half granny square.
Row 1: ch 4, 3dc into same sp, {3dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1} repeat until you reach the bottom corner, DO NOT ch 1, 3dc in next ch 1 sp going up the next granny, ch 1, {3dc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1} repeat until you reach the top corner, {3dc, ch 1, 3dc} in top corner; continue pattern until last ch-1 sp. {3dc, ch1, dc} into last ch-1 sp. Fasten off.


You will continue working the same row pattern until desired length.



Edging
Row 1 : With RS facing, join with sc at beginning of one long edge, sc evenly spaced across long edge (work 4 sc in the end of each row), sl st into beginning st, Fasten Off.





This style afghan is all about pattern. Once you know how to create one row, you'll be able to make a blanket with whatever pattern you would like! You can choose to have 5 or 6 rows of grannies if you wish!

Good luck!

Bunny Buddy

I have ventured into a new realm of knitting!!!! Well, not too far. Because the body of this Bunny Buddy is practically the same as the knit dish cloth that I make. I did have the help of some you tube videos for this, they're the best way to really learn how to knit! Especially for this visual learner!

The picture is pretty bad, because the flash drowned out some of the color and definition. But it's a cute little bunny buddy!! I got the pattern for it at lion brand. I'm going to post it here as well, because for some reason I cannot view lion brand patterns on my tablet.

I used lion brands Baby's First yarn for this. Which I never realized just how super soft that yarn is!




To make the project, it used just under one whole skein. I did use the rest of the skein to stuff the bunny's head. I figured this was better than the stuff I would have bought at the store, because it's washable. It's just as soft inside, and it uses up the remainder of that yarn that would have just gone to waste!

BLANKET BUDDY
With size 10.5 needles, cast on 1 st.
Rows 1-6 Knit into front and back of first st, knit to end of row – 7 sts at end of row 6.
Rows 7-39 K 3, yo, knit to end of row – 40 sts at end of row 39.
Rows 40-41 Cast on 12 sts for Paws, knit to end of row – 64 sts.
Rows 42-47 Knit.
Rows 48-49 Bind off 12 sts, knit to end of row – 40 sts.
Rows 50-61 K 2, k2tog, yo, k2tog, knit to end of row – 28 sts.


Shape Head
Change to size 8 needles.
Row 62 K2tog across row – 14 sts.
Row 63 Knit into front and back of each st across row – 28 sts.
Row 64 *P 1, sl 1, rep from * across row.
Rep Row 64 until Head measures 3½in [9 cm].


Shape Ears
Row 1 P3tog, return st to left needle, cast on 17 sts, p3tog, p 15 – 16 sts on right needle, 25 sts on left needle.
Row 2 Turn and p 14, p2tog – 40 sts.
Row 3 Turn and p 16.
Row 4 Turn and p 12.
Row 5 Turn and p 14.
Row 6 Turn and p 16, p2tog – 39 sts.
Row 7 Turn and p 18.
Row 8 Turn and p 16, p2tog – 38 sts.
Row 9 Turn and bind off 18 sts, p 1, *sl 1, p 1; rep from * across row – 20 sts.
Turn and rep Rows 1-9 for 2nd Ear. At end of 2nd Ear, 12 sts remain.


FINISHING
Cut a 10in [25.5 cm] length of yarn. With large-eyed blunt needle, thread yarn through every other st on needle, then back through remaining sts. Remove knitting needle and stuff Head. Pull yarn tightly to close top of Head and secure. Following diagram, embroider face using black yarn and straight sts.
Weave in ends. Tie a knot in each Paw.

Knitting!

Guess who got knitting needles for Christmas and is teaching herself how to knit?? With the help of Youtube videos as well as my grandmother.

Here it my first project that I completed correctly!!

It's a dish cloth and so easy to make!! Knitting seems to take forever, so I probably will not be making much. I do love these dish cloths though, so I will be making more of these.

I am not a knitter, and do not know how to read patterns for knitting. But if you're interested, here is what I did.

Cast on 4.
Knit 4.
Knit 4.
Knit 2, yarn over, knit the rest of the way.
Knit 2, yarn over, knit the rest of the way.
(Continue that pattern until you reach 42 stitches on the needle.)
Knit 1, Knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2 together, knit the rest of the way.
(Continue that pattern until you reach 4 stitches on the needle.)
Knit 4.
Cast off.



So if you know a thing or two about knitting, I hope you can follow that.

The youtube video that helped me learn my stitches was this one here. She really broke it down and it was easy to understand.




To learn a yarn over, I used this video. The very first stitch she shows how to do is the correct yarn over for this project.




Then to learn the knit 2 together, or the decrease, I used this video. Once again, it's the first stitch she shows how to to, the right-leaning decrease.... or knit 2 together. Remember, for this pattern you knit 2 together, then yarn over like in the increase video above, then knit 2 together again.