Knitting!

Guess who got knitting needles for Christmas and is teaching herself how to knit?? With the help of Youtube videos as well as my grandmother.

Here it my first project that I completed correctly!!

It's a dish cloth and so easy to make!! Knitting seems to take forever, so I probably will not be making much. I do love these dish cloths though, so I will be making more of these.

I am not a knitter, and do not know how to read patterns for knitting. But if you're interested, here is what I did.

Cast on 4.
Knit 4.
Knit 4.
Knit 2, yarn over, knit the rest of the way.
Knit 2, yarn over, knit the rest of the way.
(Continue that pattern until you reach 42 stitches on the needle.)
Knit 1, Knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2 together, knit the rest of the way.
(Continue that pattern until you reach 4 stitches on the needle.)
Knit 4.
Cast off.



So if you know a thing or two about knitting, I hope you can follow that.

The youtube video that helped me learn my stitches was this one here. She really broke it down and it was easy to understand.




To learn a yarn over, I used this video. The very first stitch she shows how to do is the correct yarn over for this project.




Then to learn the knit 2 together, or the decrease, I used this video. Once again, it's the first stitch she shows how to to, the right-leaning decrease.... or knit 2 together. Remember, for this pattern you knit 2 together, then yarn over like in the increase video above, then knit 2 together again.

Baby Hat with Ear Flaps

There are lots of new babies all around me. So for Christmas I made my cousins son this very cute hat! I got the pattern from Neanners Shop.

I used Bernat Baby yarn because I love love love their yarn! I love how soft it is. Other baby yarns softness doesn't come close!

This hat is not just as baby hat, you can adjust it to any size you may need! However, this is the pattern for 3-6 Months.

Download the Printable Pattern



Baby Hat with Ear Flaps
Ch 3, sl st in first ch to form ring.
Row 1: Ch 3, dc 11 in ring, sl st in third ch.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc twice in each dc around, join. {24}
Row 3: Ch 3, dc twice in next dc. (dc, 2dc) around, dc in last dc, join. {36}
Row 4: Ch 3, (dc twice in next dc, dc in next 2 dc) around, join. {48}
Row 5: Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join.
Row 6-8: Change color to make stripe. You can make one solid stripe or change colors like in picture. Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join.
Row 9: Change color back to main. Ch 3, dc in each dc around, join.

To make ear flaps:
Sl st in next 7 st. {You may also cut your yarn and join it in any st}
Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next 9 dc, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc next 4 dc, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn.
Row 3: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc next 2 dc, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, dc2tog twice, dc in last st, join and fasten.

Fold hat in half and sl st in dc directly across from last dc from the other earflap. Start again with Row 1.

After the second earflap, use any color and sc around the hat to add a border.

Add braided tassels. I cut 2 pieces of yarn of each color to a desired length and pulled it through one of the st at the bottom of the ear flap. Tied it off with a knot and then braided same colored pieces together. Tied the bottom off with a knot and cut the extra length.

Isn't it super cute!!!!

Towel Toppers

My grandmother always made these towel toppers every year, and she would hand them out as Christmas gifts! As well as inheriting all of her yarn, I also inherited her towels. She always bought her towels after the season, when they were on sale. She had about 10 towels left, so with her yarn, I made the towel toppers.

You start with a super cute kitchen towel! I know these were bought after the season last year, and I just bought a whole bunch that were 50% off for next year! It'll make this super cheap gift, even cheaper!

You want to open the towel completely up, and fold it in half. Most kitchen towels have the same mirrored design on both sides.

See how it's folded completely in half? You will be working through both sides.

I use a hole punch to help me start my first round. I know some people use a smaller hook to push through both sides of the towel, but this hole punch really helps me out a lot!

It's not a standard size hole punch. It's actually one that I had laying around in my scrapbooking room. I used it for brads while scrapbooking.

Start punching holes in your towel. Not too far down, and try to space them evenly apart. I think I eyeball these 1/4" down and 1/4" apart. I do not punch the whole towel at the same time. I have done this in the past, and toward the end I usually cannot find the holes I punched. I maybe work 10-15 punches at a time. The whole towel is around 40 punches.

I use a size F hook for this part, it fits through the punched holes easier. Attach a slipknot to your hook and enter it in the first hole in your towel.

Join it with a slip stitch.

Place your hook through the second hole, and single crochet.

Continue doing so for the whole towel. Notice how my holes are not perfect? This is a time where you don't have to 100% worry about them being perfectly level or spaced apart. Eyeballing works perfectly fine! If you only punch 10-15 holes at a time, you can easily fix a fub as well.

Continue working until you have completed the whole row of the towel. Remember, I usually have around 40 stitches at this point. If you have more or less, that is perfectly fine!! Ch 3 at the end to get ready for your turn.

If you are making multiple towels with different colored skeins of yarn, I complete this step on the towels first. To me, this is the hardest and most time consuming part of the towels, so I like to get them out of the way.

To finish off the towel, this is the easy pattern I use. I now switch to a size H-J hook.

Row 1: dc in each st across the top of the towel
Row 2: ch 3, sk 1 st, dc in next st. (sk 1 st, dc in next st) until you have reached the end of the towel. If you have an uneven amount of st, sk 2 st before the last dc.
Row 3: ch 3, dc in each st across the top of the towel.
Row 4: ch 3, (sk 1 st, dc in next st) until you have reached the end.
Row 5 - ?? Repeat row 3 and 4 until you have 5 or 6 sts left to work from.

** Some times if I feel the towel is decreasing too rapidly, I will do 2 rows of dc in each st before doing a row of skipping every other st **

From this point on, dc in each of the remaining sts until it is at a desired length. My average is 8-10 rows.

At the end, ch 10. {If you are using a smaller button, ch less. If you are using a bigger button, ch more.} And sl st through the opposite end. Then sc around the ch to reinforce. Join and fasten off.

Sew a button to your crocheted piece. I normally sew mine right below the first row of the handle part.

And there you have a towel topper! These are very easy to make and make great gifts for people for Christmas! You can always work many different designs, I find this one the easiest!

Mary Jane Slippers

I made these super cute Mary Jane Slippers! They're very quick to make, I maybe worked 3 hours on the pair total. They're not as warm as the Slipper Socks, but they still keep my feet toasty and look fashionable at the same time! The original pattern came from Good Knits.

Download the Printable Pattern






Mary Jane Slippers
Size H Crochet Hook

Round 1: Ch 4, sl st to first chain, 8 dc into circle.
Round 2: Ch 2, 2 dc into each st, sl st into top of the first dc. {16}
Round 3: Ch 2, 1 dc into same st, 2 dc into next st, (1 dc into next st, 2 dc into next) around, sl st into first dc. {24}
Round 4: Ch2, 1 dc into same st , dc into the next, 2 dc into next st, (1 dc into next 2, 2 dc into the next) around, sl st into first dc. {32}
Round 5-6: Ch 2, 1 dc into each st.
Row 7: Ch2, 1 dc into first 23 sts. Ch 2, turn.
Row 8-19: 1 dc into each st. Ch 2, turn.
Row 20: 1 dc into first 10 stitches, dc3tog, dc to end. Fasten off, leaving long tail to seam up heel.
Fold slipper in half and seam up the back with hook & slip-stitch.
Row 21: Join yarn at center back of slipper, above the heel. Ch 1, sc into same st and then 24 sc down the side of the dcs of the slipper toward the toe, at the corner, sc3tog, 5 sc, sc3tog at the next corner, 24 sc down the side of the dcs of the slipper toward the heel, sl st into first sc.
Row 22: Ch 1, 22 sc around, sc3tog in the corner, 3 sc, sc3tog in other corner, 22 sc around, sc2tog, join and finish off.
Row 23: With an accent color, {for left foot} 31 sc or to where you want your loop closure, bring up a loop approx. 2″ long, sc as usual (just with a big loop!) then sc to the end, join and finish.
Loop: Join yarn at the loop-sc and sc all the way around it.
Sew button on opposite side.

Baby Hat and Booties

These super cute baby hat and booties are another gift for a family member who just had a baby. The original pattern for the hat came from The Dainty Daisy.

Download the Printable Pattern for the Hat
The pattern for the flower is included. The flower pattern is for 3 rows of petals. The hat shown in yellow only has 2 rows of petals. If you choose to only add two, join and finish after the 2nd row.

Download the Printable Pattern for the Booties
I found out that baby yarn isn't the best for these. I used a regular 4 ply yarn.





Baby Hat with Flower


To Start All Sizes
Row 1: ch 4, join to form ring
Row 2: 6 sc in ring, DO NOT JOIN
Row 3: 2 sc in each sc of previous round {12 sc}
Row 4: (2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next stitch) 6 times, {18 sc}
Row 5: (2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next 2 stitches) 6 times {24 sc}
Row 6: (2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next 3 stitches) 6 times {30 sc}
Row 7: (2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next 4 stitches) 6 tmes {36 sc}

0-3 Months
Row 8: ch3 (this counts as first dc), dc in same stitch, ch 1, 2dc in same stitch, (skip 3 sc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next sc) around to beginning chain. Join.
Row 9: Slip Stich to ch 1 space, (ch 3, dc, ch 1, 2dc) in first chain 1 space, (2dc, 1 ch, 2dc) in each ch 1 space around. Join.
Row 10-14: repeat Rnd 9
Row 15: ch 1, 1 sc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join
Row 16: repeat Rnd 15
Finish Off

3-6 MONTH SIZE:
Row 8: (2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next 5 stitches) 6 times {42 sc}
Row 9: ch3 (this counts as first dc), dc in same stitch, ch 1, 2dc in same stitch, (skip 3 sc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next sc) around to beginning chain. Slip Stitch to Join.
Row 10: Sl St to ch 1 space, (ch 3, dc, ch 1, 2dc) in first chain 1 space, (2dc, 1 ch, 2dc) in each ch 1 space around. Join.
Row 11-14: Repeat Rnd 10
Row 15: ch 1, 1 sc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join.
Row 16-19: Repeat Rnd 15
Finish.





6-12 MONTHS – 3 years:
Row 8: (2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next 5 stitches) 6 times {42 sc}
Row 9: ch3 (this counts as first dc), dc in same stitch, ch 1, 2dc in same stitch, (skip 2 sc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next sc) around to beginning chain. Join.
Row 10: Sl St to ch 1 space, (ch 3, dc, ch 1, 2dc) in first chain 1 space, (2dc, 1 ch, 2dc) in each ch 1 space around. Join.
Row 11-15: repeat Rnd 9 Repeat Rnd 9 one more time for 12 Months – 3 Years Size
Row 16: ch 1, 1 sc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join
Row 17-18: repeat Rnd 15
Finish Off

CHILD SIZE: 3-10 Years
Row 8: (2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in next 5 stitches) 6 times {42 sc}
Row 9: ch3 (this counts as first dc), dc in same stitch, ch 1, 2dc in same stitch, (skip 2 sc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next sc) around to beginning chain. Join.
Row 10: Slip Stich to ch 1 space, (ch 3, dc, ch 1, 2dc) in first chain 1 space, (2dc, 1 ch, 2dc) in each ch 1 space around. Join.
Row 11-16: repeat Rnd 10
Row 17: ch 1, 1 sc in same stitch and in each stitch around, join
Row 18-19: repeat Rnd 17

To Start Flower: ch 7, join with sl st to form ring
Row 1: Ch 1, make 14 dc in ring, join with sl st to in first sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc, (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc) 5 times, ch 3, sk next sc, join {7 ch-3 sp}
Row 3: Join new color with sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, 3dc, hdc, sc) in same as joining, (sc, hdc, 3dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-3 sp around {7 petals}
Row 4: Ch 1, working behind petals, sc around post of first sc on round 2, ch 4, (sc around post of next sc on round 2, ch 4) around, join and fasten off. {7 ch-4 sp}
Row 5: Join new color with sl st in first ch-4 sp, ch 1 .(sc, hdc, dc, 2tr, dc, hdc, sc) in same sp as joining, (sc, hdc, dc, 2tc, dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-4 sp around {7 petals}
Row 6: Ch 1, working behind petals, sc around post of first sc on round, ch 5, (sc around post of next sc on round 4, ch 5) around, join and fasten off. {7 ch-5 sp}
Row 7: Join new color with sl st in first ch-5 sp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, 6dc, hdc, sc) in same sp as joining, (sc, hdc, 6dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-5 space around, join and fasten off. {7 petals}
Sew flower to hat.



Baby Booties

To Start: Make 8 FHdc
Row 1: 4 hdc in last FHdc st, hdc in next 6 st, 4 hdc in last st, join. {22}
Row 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 st, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) 3 times, hdc in next 6 st, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) 2 times, join with beginning hdc. {28}
Row 3: hdc in each st around, using back loop only {28}
Row 4: hdc in each st around, join and fasten. {28}

Toe Topper:
Fold slipper in half, sl st in 6th st from front, ch 2, (YO and insert hook in next st, pull through a big loop) 11 times ***all loops should still be on the crochet hook*** YO and pull through all loops, ch 1, fasten securely.

Strap:
Row 1: Sl st in 3rd st from toe topper, hdc in next 12 st, work 5 FHdc, ch 5, sl st in opposite side of strap, fasten.

Sew button to opposite side of strap.

Foundation Half Double Crochet

Another stitch I use a lot is the foundation half double crochet. It is very similar to the foundation double crochet stitch, with just a few differences. If you know how to make the Fdc, you can make the FHdc.

Foundation half double crochet (FHdc)
Ch 3, yarn over, insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—1 foundation half double crochet. *Yarn over, insert hook under the 2 loops of the “chain” stitch of last stitch and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook; repeat from * for length of foundation.

Foundation Double Crochet

A couple patterns that I will be using use the foundation double crochet stitch. If you do not know how to use it, please refer here.


Foundation double crochet (Fdc)

Chain 3. Yarn over, insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times (Figure 1)— foundation double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook under 2 loops of chain at bottom of stitch just made, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook) (Figure 2), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times (Figure 3). *Yarn over, insert hook under 2 loops of chain at bottom of stitch just made (Figure 4), yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times. Repeat from * as needed (Figure 5).



This video helped me a lot!

Baby Hat!

I've been making some baby items for some friends and family this holiday season. These tiny items are so quick to make! They come out super cute and are a great gift for anyone with a baby or is expecting.

This hat I made for a friend, I actually haven't sent it out to her yet... so hopefully it'll be a nice surprise!
I used Bernat Softee Baby Yarn: 
I love this baby yarn! It's super soft like the name says!



Download the Printable Pattern


Baby Hat with Flower

To Start Hat: ch 3 and join with sl st to form a loop
Row 1: Ch 2, make 10 dc in ring, join with sl st in first dc. {10}
Row 2: Ch 2, dc in same st, 2 dc in every st around, join with sl st. {20}
Row 3: Ch 2, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) around, join with sl st. {30}
Row 4: Ch 2, (dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st) around, join with sl st. {40}
Row 5-10: Ch 2, dc in ever st around, join {40}
Row 11: Ch 2, (dc in next 12 sts, 2dc in next st), join. {43}
Row 12: Ch 1, sc in same st, (skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip next 2 sts, sc in next st) around, join. Finish.

To Start Flower: ch 7, join with sl st to form ring
Row 1: Ch 1, make 14 dc in ring, join with sl st to in first sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in same sc, (ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc) 5 times, ch 3, sk next sc, join {7 ch-3 sp}
Row 3: Join new color with sl st in first ch-3 sp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, 3dc, hdc, sc) in same as joining, (sc, hdc, 3dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-3 sp around {7 petals}
Row 4: Ch 1, working behind petals, sc around post of first sc on round 2, ch 4, (sc around post of next sc on round 2, ch 4) around, join and fasten off. {7 ch-4 sp}
Row 5: Join new color with sl st in first ch-4 sp, ch 1 .(sc, hdc, dc, 2tr, dc, hdc, sc) in same sp as joining, (sc, hdc, dc, 2tc, dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-4 sp around {7 petals}
Row 6: Ch 1, working behind petals, sc around post of first sc on round, ch 5, (sc around post of next sc on round 4, ch 5) around, join and fasten off. {7 ch-5 sp}
Row 7: Join new color with sl st in first ch-5 sp, ch 1, (sc, hdc, 6dc, hdc, sc) in same sp as joining, (sc, hdc, 6dc, hdc, sc) in each ch-5 space around, join and fasten off. {7 petals}
Sew flower to hat.

Granny Squares

When my grandmother passed away in July of this year, I inherited all of her yarn. I knew then, to use up some of her odd sized balls and skeins, that I was going to make granny square afghans for my aunt, my uncle, and my mother.

Today. I finished the last afghan!!!! Part of me never wants to make another granny square again! LOL

They're very simple! I didn't want to go too overboard with designs and such... especially since I was making 3 of them by Christmas.

I never wanted to make granny square afghans in the past, because I didn't like the idea of sewing them together. I was always afraid I was going to mess them up somehow. That was, until I found a tutorial on how to crochet them together. I will never make a granny square a different way! Let me show you.

We're going to attach this granny square to our blanket.

Start off by attaching your color to the corner of the square. Working just like you would be if adding a new color to your square.

Finish up the first side. When you get to the corner, only work in one set of 3dc. Do NOT ch 1 yet.

The ch 1 will be joined in through the corner of the other square that you want to join it to.

Then make 3 dc into the square that you are joining.

It should look like this. :)

Now, ch 1 through the ch 1 space on the square you are joining into.

Then work 3 dc into ch 1 space of the square you are joining.

Like before, ch 1 into the ch 1 space on the opposite square.

And again, like before, 3 dc into the ch 1 space on your original square.

Ch 1 through the opposite square.

Then ch 3 into your corner.

When you get to the corner. You want to join with your ch 1 in the square that is kitty corner from your square that you are joining. If this is your first row, join with the corner of the square that you have been joining into.

Now make 3 dc into the corner space to make your turn.

Finish off this side, just as you had done before. Leaving 3 dc in the corner, remember to not ch 1 yet.

Ch 1 through the corner of the square right next door.

Make your 3 dc in the corner again to make your turn.

And finish off the side normally! Cut your yarn and tuck in the ends. Then you can begin on joining the next square to your afghan!